The Cuesta de Lipán climbs from Purmamarca (7,192 ft / 2,192 m), in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, to the Abra de Potrerillos (13,681 ft / 4,170 m): 23.2 miles (37.4 km) at an average of 5.3% with 6,457 ft (1,968 m) of climbing on National Route 52. It is one of the most spectacular climbs in the Andes, with 22 switchbacks among multicolored hills.
What the climb is like
The grade is steady and never very steep: the hardest 100 m (330 ft) stay at 8.4% according to Climbfinder. From Purmamarca, the road first follows the gorge at a moderate grade. The best-known part, the cuesta itself, is about 10.6 miles (17 km) of zigzags, with most of the switchbacks, climbing the slope to the pass. At the top, the road continues across the puna toward the Salinas Grandes.
Wikipedia puts the start at 7,192 ft (2,192 m) and the top at 13,681 ft (4,170 m), a difference of almost 6,500 ft (1,980 m), and Climbfinder gives 6,457 ft (1,968 m) of gain, 23.2 miles (37.4 km) and the top at 13,717 ft (4,181 m): the figures match. The 17 km sometimes quoted refers only to the switchback section, not the climb from Purmamarca.
The altitude is the real opponent
What makes the Cuesta de Lipán hard is not the grade but the air. The whole climb is above 6,500 ft (2,000 m) and the second half is above 9,800 ft (3,000 m). At 13,681 ft (4,170 m) there is about 40% less oxygen than at sea level, and an unacclimatized rider can lose 20-30% of their power. The calculator’s times do not account for this: if you come from low elevation, expect to take quite a bit longer. Watch for symptoms of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, dizziness) and turn back if they appear.
When to go, weather, water and traffic
The best season is April to November, the dry season. In summer (December to March) come the rains and afternoon storms. On the puna the sun is very strong, the wind usually blows in your face in the afternoon, and it freezes at night: climb in the morning, with sunscreen and warm clothes for the descent.
There are no fountains or villages on the climb: load up on water and food in Purmamarca. Traffic is moderate, with tourists heading to the Salinas Grandes and trucks using the Jama Pass corridor.
What gearing to use
With a maximum grade around 8%, a 34x28 or 34x30 is enough. But at 13,000 ft (4,000 m) you will have fewer watts than usual: go one cog easier than you would at low elevation. Check your combinations in the gear calculator.
Tips
- Acclimatize first: sleep two or three nights in the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
- Climb at a very conservative pace, especially in the last 6.2 miles (10 km).
- Drink more than you think you need: the puna air is very dry.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to climb the Cuesta de Lipán?
A 159 lb (72 kg) rider on a 21 lb (9.5 kg) bike takes about 2 hr 24 min at 3 W/kg (216 W), 2 hr 50 min at 2.5 W/kg and 1 hr 53 min at 4 W/kg. Because of the altitude, it will take you a lot longer if you are not acclimatized. Work out your time in the calculator on this page.
Is the Cuesta de Lipán paved?
Yes. It is National Route 52, the road from Purmamarca to the Salinas Grandes salt flats and the Jama Pass into Chile, paved the whole way.
Does the altitude affect you on the Cuesta de Lipán?
A lot. You start at 7,192 ft (2,192 m) and finish at 13,681 ft (4,170 m), where the air holds about 40% less oxygen than at sea level. Spend a few days in the Quebrada de Humahuaca before you climb it.