How the quiz works
Each answer adds points to the bike types that fit and takes points away from those that don’t:
- How you’ll ride counts most (0 to 10 points). A road bike won’t work on trails, and a mountain bike drags on pavement.
- Terrain, distance and your experience fine-tune it (1 to 4 points). Lots of hills push e-bikes up; long distances favor road and gravel; if you’re starting out, we lean toward simple bikes.
- Electric assist decides between the motor version and the regular one. If you say you don’t want one, we’ll never recommend it.
- Your budget takes points away from types whose entry price doesn’t fit what you want to spend.
The type with the most points wins and the runner-up is the alternative. Your answers stay in the page address, so you can copy the link to share your result or come back to it later. The Create my bike’s profile button saves a bike of that type in My Bike, with typical values you can adjust later, and every calculator will use it.
Quick guide to bike types
City bike
Upright riding position, fenders, a rear rack, lights and often an internally geared hub. You ride it in street clothes and it needs very little maintenance. It’s the bike for commuting, getting to class or running errands on flat ground or gentle hills.
Who it’s for: trips of under 6 miles (10 km) around town. Price: one of the most affordable types new.
Folding bike
Small wheels (16” or 20”) and a frame that folds in seconds. It fits on the train, in the trunk and in the office, and it takes little space at home. It rolls a bit worse than a city bike on long rides and on broken pavement.
Who it’s for: people who combine the bike with public transit or have nowhere to store it. Price: from about city-bike money for basic models to much more for the best folders.
Hybrid or trekking bike
Flat handlebar, 38-45 mm tires and mounts for fenders and panniers. It does well on pavement and dirt roads. It’s the most versatile bike and the best choice if you’re not sure.
Who it’s for: mixed riding, long rides, relaxed touring. Price: among the most affordable, a little above a city bike.
Road bike
Light, with a drop handlebar and tall gearing. There are two families: race (lower and more stretched out, built to go fast) and endurance (taller, comfortable for many hours). Today almost all of them have disc brakes and take 28-32 mm tires.
Who it’s for: fitness rides on pavement, group rides, mountain climbs. Price: a clear step up from a hybrid.
Gravel bike
A road bike with wide tires (40-50 mm), more stable geometry and mounts for bags. It rolls on pavement and dirt roads, and it’s the favorite for traveling with bags (bikepacking).
Who it’s for: people who want to get off the road without riding technical trails. Price: similar to a road bike.
Hardtail mountain bike
Suspension only at the front, 29” wheels in most sizes. Lighter, cheaper and simpler than a full-suspension bike. For fire roads and trails that aren’t too rough, it’s enough, and it teaches you to pick your line.
Who it’s for: people starting out on trails or on a tighter budget. Price: the most affordable way into mountain biking.
Full-suspension mountain bike
Suspension front and rear. On trails with rocks, roots and technical descents it gives more control, grip and comfort. They’re classified by travel: XC (100-120 mm, for pedaling fast) and trail (130-150 mm, for enjoying the descents).
Who it’s for: people who ride trails every week. Price: roughly double a hardtail, or more.
E-bikes: city, trekking and e-MTB
A motor that multiplies your pedaling, up to 20 mph on Class 1 bikes (28 mph on Class 3, under the three-class system most US states use). The city e-bike replaces the car or scooter for everyday trips; the trekking e-bike lets you do long rides with panniers; the e-MTB climbs grades you couldn’t on your own power. They weigh and cost more than a regular bike, but they greatly extend the distances and hills you can handle. Work out how many miles a battery gives you before choosing a capacity.
Price: the most expensive of each family; e-MTBs are at the top.
How much to spend
The budget ranges we give go from what a decent new model of that type costs up to the mid-range: below that, parts tend to be heavy, go out of adjustment sooner and are expensive to maintain; above it, you mostly pay for less weight and more performance.
Three tips to make your money go further:
- Prioritize the frame and brakes: parts can be swapped; the frame can’t.
- Set some money aside for a helmet, lights, a lock and a pump with a gauge.
- Look at last year’s models and used bikes checked over by a shop: they’re usually the best value.
Your size
We give you an approximate size from your height using the same chart as the bike size calculator and the bike size chart by height. Every brand measures differently, so use it to know which sizes to try and fine-tune it with your inseam. If you’re between two sizes of a specific model, compare their stack and reach in the geometry comparison tool.
Common mistakes when choosing a bike
- Buying the bike for the rider you want to be, not the one you are. A race bike for Sunday rides is uncomfortable; a full-suspension bike for fire roads is extra weight and maintenance.
- Choosing by the letter size. One brand’s M can be another’s L. Compare measurements.
- Compromising on size to save money. A bike in your size on sale is worth more than a bargain one size too big.
- Forgetting where you’ll store it. If you live in a third-floor walk-up, weight and size matter.
- Not test riding it. Ten minutes riding around tells you more than any spec sheet.
After you buy it
Set the right tire pressure for your weight and wheels, adjust your saddle height and take a look at the guides to keep it running well. If it’s for commuting, work out how much you save versus driving. The rules of the road, including those for e-bikes, are in the bike laws section.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best bike for a beginner?
For most people, a hybrid or a gravel bike: they work on pavement and dirt roads, are comfortable and easy to maintain. If you'll only ride trails, a hardtail mountain bike; if only roads, a road bike with endurance geometry (taller and more comfortable).
How much should I spend on a bike?
Enough for a decent new model of the type you need: city bikes and hybrids are the cheapest to get into, road and gravel bikes with disc brakes cost more, and full-suspension mountain bikes and e-bikes are the most expensive. Below the entry level, parts tend to be heavy and wear out sooner.
Gravel or road bike?
If you'll ride only on pavement and care about speed, road. If you want to head down dirt roads, travel with bags or ride more comfortably, gravel: with 32 mm tires it also does fine on the road.
Is an e-bike worth it?
Yes, if you'll use it to commute, if there are lots of hills or if you want to do rides you couldn't do on your own power. It costs more and weighs more, but it can replace the car for many trips.
What size bike do I need?
It depends mostly on your height and the type of bike: at 5 ft 9 in (175 cm) you'll usually need an L (55-56 cm) road bike and an L mountain bike. Fine-tune it with your inseam in the bike size calculator.