From Clermont-Ferrand (about 1,247 ft, or 380 m) to the end of the Puy de Dôme road at 4,642 ft (1,415 m), it’s 8.4 miles (13.5 km) at an average 7.6% and 3,396 ft (1,035 m) of climbing. Those are CyclingCols’ figures; French Wikipedia gives 13.4 km at 7.7%. The volcano’s summit is at 4,806 ft (1,465 m), but the road ends a little lower.
First things first: access
The summit road has been closed to cars and bikes since May 2012, when the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway opened. It’s now only a service and emergency road, sharing space with the train. Cyclists can ride it only on a few organized occasions with the département, roughly once a year, with advance registration. The Muletiers and Chèvres trails are also closed to mountain bikes. We found no fixed cycling hours on the official websites: ask the Panoramique des Dômes or the département before you go.
The climb, section by section
- Clermont-Ferrand to the old barrier (5.8 miles, or 9.4 km, at 5.8%). The approach through the city and the forests of the Chaîne des Puys. This is the part that is open.
- Old barrier to the summit (2.5 miles, or 4.1 km, at 12%). The road spirals around the volcano at a brutal, relentless grade, with pitches near 14%. This is the closed section.
The final section comes from French Wikipedia (4.1 km at 12%), and Climbfinder backs it up with 5.8 km at 10.3% from the barrier; the first section is what’s left of the total. From Royat, CyclingCols gives 7.2 miles (11.6 km) at 8.3%.
Tour de France history
The Tour first finished here in 1952, won by Fausto Coppi, and has had 14 finishes in all. In 1964, Jacques Anquetil and Raymond Poulidor climbed elbow to elbow: Anquetil cracked in the last kilometer but saved the yellow jersey by 14 seconds (Julio Jiménez won the stage). In 1975 a spectator punched Eddy Merckx near the finish. Other winners include Federico Martín Bahamontes (1959), Felice Gimondi (1967), Luis Ocaña (1971 and 1973) and Joop Zoetemelk (1976 and 1978). After a 35-year absence, the Tour returned on July 9, 2023, and Michael Woods won.
When to go and what gearing to use
If you get a spot on an organized ride, the final 12% section calls for a 34x32 or 34x34. At 3 W/kg (watts per kilo of body weight) and 159 lb (72 kg), you’ll be doing about 4.7 mph (7.6 km/h) on 12%, and on a 34x32 you’ll pedal at 57 rpm. Compare in the gear calculator. At the top there’s a restaurant and the train station; at the bottom, a large parking lot at the departure station.
Tips
- Don’t ride the closed road on your own: besides being forbidden, it shares its route with the train.
- If you want to ride the open section, combine it with other puys in the area.
- Save something for the final spiral: 2.5 miles (4 km) at 12% with no letup.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to climb the Puy de Dôme?
A 159 lb (72 kg) rider on a 21 lb (9.5 kg) bike takes about 1 h 12 min at 3 W/kg (216 W), 1 h 25 min at 2.5 W/kg and 55 min at 4 W/kg. Work out your own time with your weight and power in the calculator on this page.
Can you ride a bike up the Puy de Dôme?
Only on a few organized occasions. Since 2012, when the rack railway opened, the summit road has been closed to cars and bikes.
Who won on the Puy de Dôme in the 2023 Tour de France?
Michael Woods, on stage 9, July 9, 2023. It was the Tour's first finish there in 35 years.
What happened between Anquetil and Poulidor on the Puy de Dôme?
In 1964 they climbed it elbow to elbow. Anquetil cracked in the last kilometer but kept the yellow jersey by 14 seconds.